Add some western flair to your wardrobe with these Polymer Clay Southwest Earrings!
Creating with polymer clay is one of my favorite hobbies, jewelry being the thing I make the most with it. My friend lives in Southern Utah (which is basically a desert), so for her birthday made this stunning pair of custom Southwest Earrings using polymer clay and my Ikonart custom stencil kit. These earrings are a simple project that can be customized with different colors of clay and paint color to fit your personal style, and will definitely be a great gift idea.
To make your own Polymer Clay Southwest Earrings, you will need these supplies:
- Southwest Pattern (for personal use only)
- Ikonart Custom Stencil Kit
- Squeegee
- Polymer Clay - dark red, brown
- Earring Clay Cutter Set
- Baking Mat or Ceramic Tile
- Clay Roller or Clay Rolling Machine
- Wood Texture Roller
- Acrylic Paint - white
- Gloss Glaze or UV Resin
- 2 10mm Jump Rings
- 2 Earring Posts
- Strong Adhesive
- Jewelry Pliers
*Save 15% on Ikonart supplies when you shop with code AFM15
Printables, designs, and cut files from Artsy-Fartsy Mama are for personal use only. You may use these files for personal projects, but you may not sell them. If you'd like to share this project digitally, share a link to this post/website only. Do not share a direct link to the file.
The first thing you need to create an Ikonart stencil is a printed design. Download the Southwest Pattern design and print as dark as possible on either inkjet or laser Ikonart Printer Film. If you want to add a specific teacher's name, add it onto the image before printing.
The next step in the process is exposing the stencil film. Set up the exposure stand with UV LED Light by following the directions included in the kit. Ikonart Stencil Film is light sensitive, so be careful to keep it out of sunlight and bright lights before exposure. Cut a piece of the film the slightly larger than the design print.
Lay the piece of film down on the base of the stand with the textured side facing up. Place the printed design on top of the stencil film, making sure it's right-side up - meaning that you should be able to read the words printed on the design.
Lastly, place the clear exposure sheet (found in the stencil film pack) on top and press it down well to seal the design tight against the stencil film. Turn the exposure light on and expose the film for 35 seconds.
The next step in the stencil-making process is to washout, or rinse, the stencil to reveal the image on the film. Clip the exposed stencil film to the Ikonart clipboard with the shiny side (carrier sheet) touching the clipboard. Use a kitchen sink sprayer or TriggerJet Nozzle to rinse the stencil film with warm water until the design shows through the film and becomes completely clear. The washout process usually takes no more than 3 minutes.
Gently blot the excess water from the stencil, and hang or lay the stencil flat to dry for about 45 minutes. When the stencil is completely dry, you shouldn't see any water spots or discoloration.
While the stencil is drying, start working on the earrings. Roll out some brown polymer clay about 3mm thick. Then give the clay a wood-like texture gently rolling a wood texture roller over the top.
Next, use the smaller clay cutter to cut two pieces of clay for each earring set. Place the cutter over the clay and press it straight down, and then gently pull the cutter straight up. If the clay stays down, leave it there. If it comes up with the cutter, be careful how you remove it. Poking through the top to push the clay out can leave dents or misshape the piece.
Here's a few tricks & tips for cutting clay that have worked for me:
- Place a piece of plastic wrap over the clay first, and then cut the clay.
- Dip the cutter in corn starch or talcum powder before cutting
- Your clay or workspace might be too warm. Put the clay in the fridge or freezer to cool it down before cutting.
Carefully peel away the excess clay, leaving the pieces in place (I had extra space on my clay, so I cut some other earrings at the same time). It's ok if the edges look a little rough. Just make sure to remove all of the excess clay.
Use a toothpick or a small circle cutter to make holes at the bottom end of the earring pieces to easily connect the earring pieces together later.
To make the pieces look a little more wood-like, I painted some stain over the earring pieces and wiped away the excess. I also brushed on a little bit of mica powder to add a little more contrast. You can see the slight difference this made by comparing the top and bottom pieces in the image above.
Set these pieces aside to finish the other half of the earring set.
Condition the clay by kneading it with your hands until it becomes soft and pliable. Use a clay roller with rings (or line 2 craft sticks parallel to each other with the clay in between) to evenly flatten the clay to a 3mm thickness.
Tip: If you work directly on a baking mat or ceramic tile, you don't have to worry about transferring your project when it's time to bake the clay. This also helps reduce the chances of you accidentally ruining your project in the process.
Remove the carrier sheet from the back of the stencil and place it over the clay. Rub it down gently with your fingers or use the roller to make sure the stencil is pressed down well and that there aren't any air bubbles trapped underneath.
Add a small line of acrylic paint at the edge of the stencil. Use a squeegee to gently pull the paint across to the opposite edge. Don't press hard, just skim over the top of the stencil. Scrape the excess paint away and put it back into the paint bottle.
Slowly lift the stencil up to reveal the painted pattern underneath. If you see any missed spots while peeling the stencil away, carefully lay the stencil back down and add a little more paint over the area.
If everything looks good as you get to the end of the stencil, remove the stencil completely. Let the paint dry on the clay before moving on to the next step (don't worry - it doesn't take long). Wash the stencil well following the instructions below.
Washing Stencils:
For best results, wash stencils while the paint is still wet. To wash your stencil so that it can be used again and again, first get the clipboard wet so your stencil doesn't stick to it. Place the stencil on the clipboard with the textured side up, and lightly rub the stencil under cold running water to remove all the paint.
Do not rub or scrub the adhesive side of the stencil, and NEVER use anything other than water to wash the stencils. To prevent the stencil from breaking down, don't ever leave the stencils to soak.
Remove the stencil from the clipboard and lay it down with the adhesive side up. While the stencil is still wet, place the carrier sheet onto the stencil so that the word “BACK” is readable. Hang or lay the stencil flat to dry completely.
Cut two pieces (per earring) using the larger clay cutter. Place the cutter over the clay and press it straight down, and then gently pull the cutter straight up. If the clay stays down, leave it there. If it comes up with the cutter, be careful how you remove it. Poking through the top to push the clay out can leave dents or misshape the piece.
Here's a few tricks & tips for cutting clay that have worked for me:
- Place a piece of plastic wrap over the clay first, and then cut the clay.
- Dip the cutter in corn starch or talcum powder before cutting
- Your clay or workspace might be too warm. Put the clay in the fridge or freezer to cool it down before cutting.
Carefully peel away the excess clay, leaving the pieces in place (I had extra space on my clay, so I cut some other earrings at the same time). It's ok if the edges look a little rough. Just make sure to remove all of the excess clay.
Preheat your oven and bake both sets of earring pieces. Most polymer clays are usually baked at 275º for 15 minutes per quarter inch thickness, but I usually bake mine for at least 30 minutes (refer to your specific clay packaging directions). Once baked, let the clay cool completely before handling.
Use a fine sandpaper or nail file to clean up any rough edges of the earring pieces.
To give the earrings a shiny and professional-looking finish, you can apply a coat of gloss glaze or UV Resin to the surface with a toothpick. This extra finish will also keep the painted design protected to keep the earrings looking good as new for years to come.
Add a small drop of strong adhesive to the surface of the earring post, and then center the post on the back of the top earring piece. For an even more secure hold, apply a thin layer of UV resin over the back of the earring, covering the base of the earring post.
I am so impressed with how these Polymer Clay Southwest Earrings turned out, and I could NOT have applied that pattern without the help of my Ikonart kit. These earrings are such a fun accessory, and are an even better gift idea! If you try making some of these earrings, I would love to see them! Leave a comment, or tag a photo on Facebook, Twitter, or Instagram! #AFMcrafts
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